soldering guide
clean tip, hot joint, tiny solder. that’s the mantra.
iron: 330–360 °C for leaded (Sn63/Pb37), 360–380 °C for lead-free. use flux. tip tinned = shiny.
through-hole steps
- insert part, bend legs slightly to hold.
- touch pad + lead with the tip ~1 s to heat both.
- feed solder into the joint (not the tip) until it flows; remove solder, then remove tip.
- result: smooth, shiny cone. if dull/crumbly → reflow with flux.
SMD quickies (0805/0603)
- tin one pad. hold part with tweezers and reflow that pad.
- solder the other pad with a tiny bit of solder + flux.
common fixes
- bridge: wick + flux, swipe away.
- cold joint: add flux, reheat until smooth.
- lifted pad: don’t tug parts; heat first, then lift gently.
care
- keep tip tinned; wipe on damp sponge or brass wool.
- use no-clean flux pen; clean sticky residue with isopropyl.
- ventilation is good; avoid breathing fumes.
bench notes
recommendations/tips
- for lead-free solder i recommend SAC305
- personal fave solder companies: MG Chemicals, AIM, Loctite, Chip Quik
- if you really like working with lead solder, AIM sells an indium alloy that feels similar — it’s expensive, but they’ll send a free sample if you write them
- fav flux: Chip Quik SMD291 (comes in a syringe)
- Stickvise
- Omnifixo — great for soldering wire-to-wire; i hate third hands and this is the only one worth getting
- get a microscope before you think you need one
- spreading out flux braid helps it absorb solder faster
- Kimwipes + 99% ISO for cleaning flux
- affordable good soldering irons: Miniware, Sugon, Thermaltronics (in order of price/size)
- game changer: Aven tweezers (set of 5, yellow bag)